How do pigments and technique work in scalp micropigmentation (SMP)?
Answer: In scalp micropigmentation (SMP), specialised pigments and technique work together by using soft, hair-coloured tones placed at a controlled shallow depth with tiny needles and even dot spacing so the dots heal as small, stable follicle-sized points instead of spreading, blurring, or turning blue, creating a natural-looking shadow or buzz-cut effect that holds up in everyday lighting and on camera when layered slowly over a few sessions.
- Pigments: Hair-coloured tones designed to heal as soft, neutral dots — not bright body-art ink.
- Depth: Placed in the upper dermis so dots stay small instead of blowing out or fading too fast.
- Technique: Tiny needles, controlled spacing, and multiple light layers rather than one heavy pass.
- Real-life test: Built to look like stubble in your bathroom mirror, on FaceTime, and in social photos.
What makes SMP pigment different from regular tattoo ink
SMP work is done with specialised cosmetic pigments that are chosen to behave more like hair shadow than body-art colour.
- Softer tones: Pigments are mixed closer to hair and skin tones, not bright colours.
- Controlled ingredients: Formulas are chosen to fade predictably instead of shifting to green or blue.
- Graded shades: We keep a range of light-to-dark options to match different skin and hair mixes.
The goal is not to show off the ink — it’s to make it disappear into the overall impression of hair.
How colour matching actually works
Good SMP starts with matching your hair, skin, and lighting environment, not just picking a dark bottle.
- Hair vs. skin: We look at the contrast between your natural hair colour and scalp tone.
- Undertones: Warm, cool, or neutral skin affects how the pigment looks once healed.
- Lighting reality: We consider how you’re most often seen — office lights, sunlight, or indoor evenings.
The right choice usually looks slightly softer in the chair and more “just right” once healed and viewed at normal distance — including on camera.
Needles, depth, and dot size: why they matter
Natural-looking SMP is less about “drawing” and more about precise dot placement.
- Needle size: Very small configurations are used so each dot can heal the size of a follicle.
- Depth control: Too shallow and it fades quickly; too deep and it can spread or blur.
- Dot spacing: Slight gaps between dots keep the look like stubble, not a solid block.
This depth and spacing control is what keeps SMP from turning into a muddy, tattoo-like patch over time.
Why SMP is done in light layers over multiple sessions
Instead of trying to finish everything in one long appointment, SMP is built over 2–4 lighter sessions.
- Session one: Establishes the overall shape, hairline frame, and a light foundation layer.
- Session two: Adds density through the top and crown, fills gaps, and adjusts tone if needed.
- Session three+: Fine-tunes density, blends into existing hair, and refines edges or scars.
Your skin, lifestyle, and healing patterns show us how much we can safely build — this is how you get a result that looks good at home, on FaceTime, and in photos, not just fresh out of the chair.
What prevents blue/green fade and “blown-out” SMP
The results people fear — blue tones, blurry edges, sharp “marker” hairlines — usually come from poor pigment choice or technique.
- Neutral pigments: Chosen to age toward soft, hair-like tones instead of bright or cool colours.
- Correct layer: Working at the right depth keeps pigment from spreading like a bruise.
- Soft hairline design: Using micro-irregular edges and scattered dots, not a flat drawn line.
Combined with proper aftercare, these choices are what keep SMP reading as natural stubble instead of obvious ink, even years later.
How pigments and technique show up on camera
SMP has to pass the phone camera test, not just the studio mirror test. We design with that in mind.
- Shine control: Dot pattern and density are planned so bright lights don’t create odd hotspots.
- Angle checks: We look at how the work reads from the front, sides, and top — the angles your camera sees.
- Style flexibility: Technique is adapted whether you keep a tighter buzz or a slightly longer look.
The goal is a scalp that looks quiet and even in everyday lighting, on FaceTime, and in social photos — not just in filtered studio shots.
Next steps if you’re curious about pigments and technique
If you want to know exactly how pigments and technique would work for your skin and hair, the cleanest next step is a quick, at-home FaceTime consultation. We’ll look at your pattern on camera, talk through colour options, hairline approach, and session planning, and give you a realistic picture of how SMP would read in your real lighting — before you ever travel to the studio or book anything in.
Related: What Is SMP? • SMP Longevity & Fading • SMP Pain & Safety